A Guide to visit Dolomite's Highlights with public transport
- Feb 18, 2024
- 7 min read
Welcome to this hopefully concise travel guide for the stunning Italian Alps, also known as Dolomites or South Tyrol. Having personally experienced their breathtaking beauty during my visit in 2022, I am thrilled to assist you in exploring this remarkable region. While most guides focus on road trips, I opted for public transportation, and I assure you that it is entirely feasible to navigate this gorgeous area without renting a car. Let's delve into the details and make the most of your journey.
Helpful facts and tips for your trip:
Language: In the Dolomites, both Italian and German are spoken. It can be useful to have some basic knowledge of both languages or carry a phrasebook for communication.
Transportation: When navigating through the region's transportation network, consider using Suedtirol Mobil in addition to Google Maps. Suedtirol Mobil provides comprehensive information on public transportation options, including buses and trains. Please note that there may be inconsistencies between the schedules provided on Google Maps and the Sudtirol Mobil website for the same routes. To ensure you don't miss your transportation, I recommend scheduling your trips based on the earliest time indicated by either source and arriving at the station or stop at least 15 minutes before the scheduled departure time. This will allow for any unexpected delays or changes in the transportation schedule. Keep in mind that buses in the area generally operate on a frequency of approximately 1-2 hours, so plan your itinerary accordingly.
Cash: It's advisable to carry cash with you as many establishments in the area may not accept card payments.
Choosing bases: I personally found Fiames and Lajen to be more budget-friendly options compared to Cortina d'Ampezzo and Ortisei. I stayed at Hotel Fiames in Fiames and B&B L'Arca di Noè in Lajen. Both offer pleasant accommodations and convenient locations for exploring the region, with very friendly and helpful staff. Another alternative to Cortina worth considering is Dobbiaco, especially if the buses you plan to take frequently stop there. The town offers scenic beauty similar to Cortina.
Mountain weather: Even if you visit during the summer, keep in mind that temperatures in the mountains can still be quite cold. It is important to invest in good quality hiking boots to ensure comfort and safety during your outdoor adventures.
How to get to the Dolomites: I got to the Dolomites from Venice with the ATVO - Transfer Venice - Cortina service. ATVO offers direct bus transfers from Venice to Cortina d'Ampezzo. You can find more information about this service and book tickets on the VeneziaUnica. Possible alternatives to Venice are Bolzano Airport (BZO) and Innsbruck Airport (INN).
Helpful links for your trip:
Dolomitibus to access information about bus schedules, routes, and fares in the Dolomites. This will be useful for planning your transportation within the region.
The Südtirol Mobil Pass as stated previously. You can buy their passes in train stations or some chosen hotels.
Check out the Val Gardena Maps website for detailed maps of the Val Gardena area. I used this mostly to check for cable cars. They also have webcams of the area and a pass.
What to see from Cortina d'Ampezzo
Lago di Braies/Pragser Wildsee
How to reach: Take bus number 445 to Dobbiaco followed by bus 442 to the lake
What to do:
Enjoy a leisurely hike along the lake, which takes approximately 1 hour. The trail offers different perspectives and stunning views of the lake.
Consider renting a boat for a unique experience. Boats are available for 30 minutes at 19€ or 1 hour at 29€, allowing you to explore the lake at your own pace.
For more adventurous hikers, there are challenging day hikes available in the surrounding area.
Don't miss the opportunity to visit the Lago di Braies chapel, a beautiful sight near the lake.
Some useful information:
Please note that drones are not allowed at Lago di Braies, and violating this rule may result in an expensive fine. Be mindful of this restriction.
Typically, the boat house is accessible only for those renting the boats. However, depending on the circumstances, they may allow visitors inside. If you find that the platform is not crowded, you can politely inquire with the staff for permission to enter.
It's worth considering visiting in June or July to experience the lake at its fullest, as water levels can be lower in September. August tends to have more tourists.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo/Drei Zinnen
How to reach: Take bus number 445 to Dobbiaco, followed by bus 444 to Tre Cime Auronzo Rifugio for convenient access to Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Important information: Please note that it is highly recommended to purchase online tickets for the shuttle bus service to Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Even if the bus has empty seats, the drivers will insist on online tickets. You can purchase the tickets here. I had to attempt getting on the bus three times before a bus driver allowed us on board, while freezing at the Lago di Dobiacco bus station.
What to do:
Do the Tre Cime loop hike: The loop consists of multiple segments:As we arrived late, we were only able to reach a point just ahead of Rifugio Lavaredo, which is approximately halfway through the loop. We had to return to the bus afterward. If you wish to complete the entire loop, I recommend dedicating a full day for the hike and allocating another day for the Misurina hike and exploring the Misurina and Antorno lakes.What to see during the hike: ww1 bunkers // gallerie di monte paterno; laghi dei piani; cappella degli alpini; forcella lavaredo viewpoint
Enjoy lunch at a Rifugio:
Rifugio Auronzo: The food at Rifugio Auronzo is excellent, and you can savour your meal while enjoying the breathtaking mountain views. Beware that this rifugio is at the beginning/end of the hike
Rifugio Antonio Lacatelli: is located in the middle of the hike
Bonus Spots: Additionally, if you plan to visit Lago di Misurina and Lago d'Antorno on the same day as Tre Cime di Lavaredo, it may not be realistic. I recommend dedicating another day to explore those lakes and do the Candini di Misurina hike.
Candini di Misurina, Lago di Misurina and Lago d’Antorno
How to reach: Take bus number 445 to Dobbiaco, followed by bus 444
What to do:
Hike the Candini di Misurina hike. You can choose between two paths: path 117 starting from Rifugio Auronzo or path 101/119 starting from Lago d'Antorno. Please note that the 117 path can be challenging, especially for beginners or those with a fear of heights. If you decide to take this path, pay attention when reaching the junction as taking a right turn instead of the left will lead to an easier path. Starting from Lago d'Antorno, the hike gains more elevation.
Cortina to Ortisei
How to reach: Take bus number 445 to Dobbiaco. Reach the train station and catch the train R1846, SAD Bahn (Direction:Frazens Ferstungen) to Fortezza train station (platform 1), walk to Fortezza train station (track 2) and catch the train R17147, Trenitalia (Direction: Merano) to Chiusa railway station (track 2). Take a quick walk to chiusa train station bus stop and catch the bus 351 to Ortisei
Important information: When using public transportation in the Dolomites, particularly at Dobbiaco station, it's advisable to have cash with you. I encountered some issues using my card at the station, so having cash on hand is recommended. Additionally, it's worth noting that the ticket machines at Dobbiaco station may not accept 50€ bills, so it's advisable to have smaller bills available for purchasing tickets or other transactions.
What to see from Ortisei
Seceda 2500m
How to reach: From Ortisei’s Antonusplatz, walk up the street and get the cabble car number 13 and 14 (return tickets for both cable cars is 39,50€) to reach the viewpoint in the photos. Be aware that the last cable car return is at 17h30 (for more information visit their website).
What to do:
Admire the scenery and the Odle/Geisler Peaks. I only spent an afternoon here so I would say half a day is enough to explore this area
Val di Funes/Villnösstal
How to reach: From Ortisei’s Antoniusplatz get the bus 350 to brixen and hop off at the bus station Clammy to change to bus 330 to Zanserhutte.
What to do:
Visit the Ranui viewpoint: from bus 330 hop off at the bus stop Ranui to visit Saint John Church situated amidst a picturesque meadow with mountains in the background. Please note that the Saint John Church is private property, and flying drones is strictly prohibited. You can admire the church from a closed wooden platform or access the meadow for a fee of 4€ (in cash), which allows you to walk on the small road leading up to the church.
Explore Sta Magdalena, a typical Tyrolean village: from bus 330 hop off at the bus stop Sta. Magdalena, Filler and wander around the charming village of Sta Magdalena. Take a closer look at the church and hike to the renowned viewpoint.
Alternatively, you can choose to explore the area through some of its famous hikes:
Geisler Alm Hike to Rifugio Delle Odle: This 12km round trip takes approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes. You can visit the popular Rifugio Delle Odle along the way.
Val Di Funes Panoramaweg (highly recommended): Covering a distance of 7-9 km, this hike takes around 3.5 hours to complete.
Adolf Munkel Trail: Stretching over 13km, this moderate-level hike takes approximately 5 hours to complete.
Tip: The Val di Funes area is best explored in the afternoon, preferably closer to sunset. Keep in mind that there are limited restaurants in the area, and I only came across one ATMs near the bus stop. It's advisable to carry cash and some snacks with you. If you plan to hike to the rifugios, you can enjoy a meal there.
Alpe di Siusi /Seiser alm
How to reach: From Ortisei, you can access Alpe di Siusi by taking cable car number 16. A round trip ticket costs 28€, or you can opt for a combined ticket with the chair lift for 33€, which is convenient if you have limited time or prefer not to walk back up to the gondola.
What to do:
Enjoy the swing by Malga Sanon Alpine restaurant
Rent e-bikes
Hike to Adler Lodge Alpe or Malga Sanon
While I only spent an afternoon in Alpe di Siusi, I highly recommend allocating a full day to explore the area. If possible, consider visiting at sunrise by taking the first gondola up at 8:30 AM. This will allow you to witness the stunning beauty of the landscape during the early morning hours.
Lago di Carezza/Karersee
How to reach: From Ortisei, you have two options to reach Carezza Lake. First, you can take the 351 bus to Waidbruck railway station and then switch to the 350 bus (heading towards Bolzano) to Cardaun commercial area. From there, take bus 180 to Carezza. Alternatively, you can take the 351 bus (heading towards Brixen) to Chiusa, then board the R17131 train (heading towards Merano) to Bolzano. From Bolzano's bus station, take the 180 bus to Carezza.
Please note that the journey takes approximately 2 hours. If you have luggage with you, you can leave it at the train station
What to do:
There’s a small 30 min walking very easy circuit, around the lake, that gives you different perspectives from the lake
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